Overview:
On a particularly dreary fall afternoon, I gazed up at the faded green gate with a shudder. The Dōng Yuè Miào seemed almost forgotten, despite its prime real estate along a busy road just blocks away from Sanlitun. The gold was chipped and looked to be in a long-standing state of disrepair. Such is the legacy of Beijing's Daoist temple. Despite having been open to the public since the early 2000s, few locals make an effort to visit the temple save for festivals or holidays. Practicing Daoists take time, of course, but it's hardly the go-to for tourists with only a few days to spare in China's capital city.
The temple was founded in 1319. The project was first started by Zhang Liusun, a descendant of the Daoist founder Zhang Daoling. However, after raising the funds for the land for the temple, Liusun died, leaving the task of construction to his disciple and Daoist master Wu Quanjie. In 1322, the main halls and gate were completed. Its name, Dōng Yuè Miào, means Eastern Peak Temple, and is dedicated to the God of Mount Tai – the easternmost and holiest of the Five Sacred Mountains of Taoism, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The name was given in 1447, during the Zhèngtŏng Emperor's reign in the Ming Dynasty. Expanded during the Qing Dynasty, the temple was later damaged during the Cultural Revolution of the 20th century, as many temples and historical sites were at the time. The temple then served as a school, government offices and public housing until 1996, when it was named a national treasure by the State Council. Thanks to millions of yuan, the temple was restored and reopened to the public by 2002. By Protected as a National Key Cultural Relict, the Dōng Yuè Miào is currently the largest temple of the Zhengyi school of Taoism in northern China. Inside, it houses the Beijing Folk Customs Museum.
According to the stories, the God of Mount Tai is charged with supervising the 18 layers of Hell and its 76 departments – each of which are illustrated throughout the complex with a series of sculptures and plaques. Those who practice the religion will go to the appropriate room with offerings of money or incense. While reading some of the rooms' names, though, it's hard to imagine many visiting that room for prayer or reverence. It is a somber place, where great stelae stand amid tangled trees laced with red tokens. It may not be a top tourist site, but is well worth a visit for anyone calling Beijing home. Head over on a dreary sort of day and embrace the temple's heavy, impactful presence.
Expected duration: 1.5 to 3 hours
Expected cost: ¥10 / free during festivals
Solo-savvy:
Like other temples in the city, it's easy enough to enjoy such a place as the Dōng Yuè Miào on your own. Most of the plaques and signs have English, as do the labels along the museums' artifacts. While the experience can be made all the better in the presence of someone who knows a bit about daoism or the temple itself, you'll find a solitary afternoon spent wandering around the complex more than rewarding. Note: One of the shrines, housed in a building in the back, is rarely lit and can be an eerie experience. Bolster your nerves if flying solo. If odd, rather morbid temples are your idea of a good date spot, you can also use the opportunity to take the hand of a prospective “special someone.”
Requirements:
The temple is open Tuesday through Sunday, from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. While rarely overcrowded, save for holidays and festivals, be sure to avoid the crowds by going early. You'll find the best opportunity for photos when the light is good in the early morning or afternoon. In this expat's opinion, the mood of the temple is one best experienced on a cold, gloomy day. You'll appreciate all the more the dark, almost sinister look of some of the statues under an overcast sky.
Getting there:
Located in the bustling Chaoyang District, the Dōng Yuè Miào sits a fair walk away from Sanlitun and various expat-local haunts. From the Haidian District, you'll have a few options.
The plan:
If you weren't looking for it, you could almost miss this temple, tucked along a busy main street in the Chaoyang District. Next to modern buildings and parking lots, the towering green and gold gate stands across from the temple's entrance. Depending on your approach to the temple, you may already be on the side of this great gate. If not, (carefully) cross the road and take a moment to admire the intricate carvings of the roof and patterned design. Then turn your attention back to the red, green and gold buildings that make up the entrance to the Dōng Yuè Miào. Two towers stand over you on either side, beautifully designed yet faded from time and weather. After purchasing your ticket, take a moment to review the large sign explaining the site. It will tell you a brief history of the temple and museum, with only a few notable misspellings and grammatical mistakes. Great towers of flowers stand at the front of the main buildings, in stark contrast to the chipped, muted painting on the buildings themselves.
Inside, a great walkway stands before you, lined with red charms and strings left behind with family names of those who have visited before. It leads to one of the main halls, and is formidable in its size and design. On each side of that path, stelae stand worn and weathered. Incense burns in great metal and stone bins, ready for practicing daoists to leave their own incense to burn.
But before following that main path, veer either left or right. Along the perimeter of the complex, over 70 rooms stand, representing the departments of daoist practice. The statues inside each forever play the role they've been cast in, be it the deciders of prisoners' judgment, or the folks that review the paperwork the previous department sent over. Many of these departments review earthly souls upon their death, deciding whether they go to heaven or hell in the afterlife. These rooms have such names as the Department of Official Morality, the Department of Pity and Sympathy, and the Department for Accumulating Wealth, and have statues act out the scene accordingly. The Department for Implementing 15 Kinds of Violent Death, etc., are rather vulgar and gruesome inside. The plaques along the outside share the department's mission – their blunt, often broken wording are good for a sigh, laugh or shocked look from your companions as you circle around the courtyard. I suggest taking the time to read them and really look at the statues. You never know what you'll see hidden in the back corners.
At the end of the great walkway sits the main palace of the temple. Intricately decorated, it houses a large statue of the God of Mount Tai and courtiers. To the sides are the Halls of Wealth, the East Prince Hall and the Hall of Childbirth. Each has relics from various dynasties. Even further back is the Beijing Folk Customs Museum. With rotating exhibits, visitors can often observe different folk relics and handicrafts from hundreds of years before. The museum is included in the price of admission, and well worth some time. The crafts housed there are vivid and well-preserved, shedding light on smaller parts of China's cultural heritage.
Circle back and make sure you check out the remaining rooms before leaving the site. Standing under the tangled trees, you'll notice how quiet it is inside. The temple's walls seem to block out the street's noise, making the experience a bit more eerie, in a delightful sort of way. This is not the place to rush, but rather move slowly and enjoy the solitude and subtle scent of incense burning nearby.
Keep in mind:
This is still a practicing temple, so respect and quiet observance are key to being good guests. When visiting, be sure to leave room for practicing daoists, and remain quiet as they pray. Respectfully view the stelae without touching them or standing on the carved tortoises. Observe the red charms hanging from the walkway or the trees but do not touch or tug on them.
If you can, visit the temple during either the spring or mid-autumn festivals. Temple fairs bring out artisans and those peddling folk handicrafts. Food vendors sell authentic tastes to munch on as you peruse the crafts and family activities housed in the temple. They would stand in stark contrast to such a somber temple's backdrop, offering an altogether new way to experience the Dōng Yuè Miào.
Nearby:
The Chaoyang District is a hub for expat life. Whether you're looking for bars or great food, you're only a few blocks away from a good time.
Just a walk away is Gung Ho Pizza (101 Building 3 China View, 2 Gongti East Road, Sanlitun). While always a delicious stop for a quick meal, I recommend stopping by on a Tuesday evening. You can then take advantage of the restaurants 2-for-1 pizza deal. Buy one pizza, get another free. Far from your typical pepperoni pizza, they boast flavors like the Hot 'N' Spicy – Black Forest ham and pepperoni topped with red onions and sliced jalapenos – or the New Zealand Lamb Pizza – grilled veggies and tender lamb, topped with homemade harissa and fresh mint tzatziki sauce. Looking for something far off the beaten path? Try the English Fish Pie Pizza, complete with fresh salmon, sole and prawns in a bechamel sauce, mashed potatoes and spices, and fresh Parmesan. For vegetarians like me, you can't go wrong with the Roasted Eggplant – eggplant, peppers, mushrooms and fresh basil on a spinach pesto base – or Il Classico, with mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, Greek olives and oregano. There are also salads, calzones and tasty appetizers if you aren't looking for a full pizza meal. From 7 to 10 p.m., they also have a killer drink happy hour with craft beers and well-balanced mixed drinks.
If you're looking to shop after your cultural dive into the Dōng Yuè Miào, there are numerous shopping centers just a few blocks away, too, complete with bookstores, clothing boutiques, etc.
Pronunciation guide:
Dōng Yuè Miào – dong-you-eh-meow || To create the “dōng” sound, keep a sustained, very round “o” sound, and keep your tone flat and raised. The “yuè” is more clipped, with the accent on the “è” - combine you-eh, forcing the “eh” downward. “Miào” is also clipped and forced down, pronounced much like the sound a cat makes – meow.
Dictionary:
daoism (or “taoism”) || This tradition has been prevalent in Chinese life for more than 2,000 years. It seemingly combines Confucian practice with folk tradition. The practice focuses on the worship of the Dao, and on the nature of reality and how to increase their longevity while living morally. Those who practice daoism aim to remain in balance with the Dao, or “way” / “path,” the source of everything that exists.
UNESCO || The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization
Resources:
Read more about Daoism here and here.
Find out more about Mount Tai, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, here.
For Gung Ho Pizza: http://gunghopizza.com/en/
On a particularly dreary fall afternoon, I gazed up at the faded green gate with a shudder. The Dōng Yuè Miào seemed almost forgotten, despite its prime real estate along a busy road just blocks away from Sanlitun. The gold was chipped and looked to be in a long-standing state of disrepair. Such is the legacy of Beijing's Daoist temple. Despite having been open to the public since the early 2000s, few locals make an effort to visit the temple save for festivals or holidays. Practicing Daoists take time, of course, but it's hardly the go-to for tourists with only a few days to spare in China's capital city.
The temple was founded in 1319. The project was first started by Zhang Liusun, a descendant of the Daoist founder Zhang Daoling. However, after raising the funds for the land for the temple, Liusun died, leaving the task of construction to his disciple and Daoist master Wu Quanjie. In 1322, the main halls and gate were completed. Its name, Dōng Yuè Miào, means Eastern Peak Temple, and is dedicated to the God of Mount Tai – the easternmost and holiest of the Five Sacred Mountains of Taoism, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The name was given in 1447, during the Zhèngtŏng Emperor's reign in the Ming Dynasty. Expanded during the Qing Dynasty, the temple was later damaged during the Cultural Revolution of the 20th century, as many temples and historical sites were at the time. The temple then served as a school, government offices and public housing until 1996, when it was named a national treasure by the State Council. Thanks to millions of yuan, the temple was restored and reopened to the public by 2002. By Protected as a National Key Cultural Relict, the Dōng Yuè Miào is currently the largest temple of the Zhengyi school of Taoism in northern China. Inside, it houses the Beijing Folk Customs Museum.
According to the stories, the God of Mount Tai is charged with supervising the 18 layers of Hell and its 76 departments – each of which are illustrated throughout the complex with a series of sculptures and plaques. Those who practice the religion will go to the appropriate room with offerings of money or incense. While reading some of the rooms' names, though, it's hard to imagine many visiting that room for prayer or reverence. It is a somber place, where great stelae stand amid tangled trees laced with red tokens. It may not be a top tourist site, but is well worth a visit for anyone calling Beijing home. Head over on a dreary sort of day and embrace the temple's heavy, impactful presence.
Expected duration: 1.5 to 3 hours
Expected cost: ¥10 / free during festivals
Solo-savvy:
Like other temples in the city, it's easy enough to enjoy such a place as the Dōng Yuè Miào on your own. Most of the plaques and signs have English, as do the labels along the museums' artifacts. While the experience can be made all the better in the presence of someone who knows a bit about daoism or the temple itself, you'll find a solitary afternoon spent wandering around the complex more than rewarding. Note: One of the shrines, housed in a building in the back, is rarely lit and can be an eerie experience. Bolster your nerves if flying solo. If odd, rather morbid temples are your idea of a good date spot, you can also use the opportunity to take the hand of a prospective “special someone.”
Requirements:
The temple is open Tuesday through Sunday, from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. While rarely overcrowded, save for holidays and festivals, be sure to avoid the crowds by going early. You'll find the best opportunity for photos when the light is good in the early morning or afternoon. In this expat's opinion, the mood of the temple is one best experienced on a cold, gloomy day. You'll appreciate all the more the dark, almost sinister look of some of the statues under an overcast sky.
Getting there:
Located in the bustling Chaoyang District, the Dōng Yuè Miào sits a fair walk away from Sanlitun and various expat-local haunts. From the Haidian District, you'll have a few options.
- If you take Line 13 down to Xizhimen, you can then hop onto Line 2 over to the Chaoyangmen Station. From Line 10, you can transfer at Shaoyaoju on the other side of Line 13, hop over to Line 2 at the Donzhimen Station transfer, and exit at Chaoyangmen Station. Pass through Exit A and walk east about 600 meters to the temple. If you opt for Line 6, you can take the Dongdaqiao (East Bridge) Station, take Exit A and walk west about 600 meters.
- Prefer the bus? You can take public buses 75, 101, 109, 110 or 112, and get off at the Shenlu Street Station. Both the bus and subway will allow you to use your public transportation card and won't cost you more than a few kuai.
- A cab, while more direct, can cost around ¥65 from parts of the Haidian District, and will require you know enough Chinese to guide the driver to the temple. Cab drivers don't always know the names of every temple or attraction in the city, putting the burden on the passenger to guide them to the destination. (Here's the address, just in case: No. 141 Chaoyangmen Main Street, Chaoyang District.)
The plan:
If you weren't looking for it, you could almost miss this temple, tucked along a busy main street in the Chaoyang District. Next to modern buildings and parking lots, the towering green and gold gate stands across from the temple's entrance. Depending on your approach to the temple, you may already be on the side of this great gate. If not, (carefully) cross the road and take a moment to admire the intricate carvings of the roof and patterned design. Then turn your attention back to the red, green and gold buildings that make up the entrance to the Dōng Yuè Miào. Two towers stand over you on either side, beautifully designed yet faded from time and weather. After purchasing your ticket, take a moment to review the large sign explaining the site. It will tell you a brief history of the temple and museum, with only a few notable misspellings and grammatical mistakes. Great towers of flowers stand at the front of the main buildings, in stark contrast to the chipped, muted painting on the buildings themselves.
Inside, a great walkway stands before you, lined with red charms and strings left behind with family names of those who have visited before. It leads to one of the main halls, and is formidable in its size and design. On each side of that path, stelae stand worn and weathered. Incense burns in great metal and stone bins, ready for practicing daoists to leave their own incense to burn.
But before following that main path, veer either left or right. Along the perimeter of the complex, over 70 rooms stand, representing the departments of daoist practice. The statues inside each forever play the role they've been cast in, be it the deciders of prisoners' judgment, or the folks that review the paperwork the previous department sent over. Many of these departments review earthly souls upon their death, deciding whether they go to heaven or hell in the afterlife. These rooms have such names as the Department of Official Morality, the Department of Pity and Sympathy, and the Department for Accumulating Wealth, and have statues act out the scene accordingly. The Department for Implementing 15 Kinds of Violent Death, etc., are rather vulgar and gruesome inside. The plaques along the outside share the department's mission – their blunt, often broken wording are good for a sigh, laugh or shocked look from your companions as you circle around the courtyard. I suggest taking the time to read them and really look at the statues. You never know what you'll see hidden in the back corners.
At the end of the great walkway sits the main palace of the temple. Intricately decorated, it houses a large statue of the God of Mount Tai and courtiers. To the sides are the Halls of Wealth, the East Prince Hall and the Hall of Childbirth. Each has relics from various dynasties. Even further back is the Beijing Folk Customs Museum. With rotating exhibits, visitors can often observe different folk relics and handicrafts from hundreds of years before. The museum is included in the price of admission, and well worth some time. The crafts housed there are vivid and well-preserved, shedding light on smaller parts of China's cultural heritage.
Circle back and make sure you check out the remaining rooms before leaving the site. Standing under the tangled trees, you'll notice how quiet it is inside. The temple's walls seem to block out the street's noise, making the experience a bit more eerie, in a delightful sort of way. This is not the place to rush, but rather move slowly and enjoy the solitude and subtle scent of incense burning nearby.
Keep in mind:
This is still a practicing temple, so respect and quiet observance are key to being good guests. When visiting, be sure to leave room for practicing daoists, and remain quiet as they pray. Respectfully view the stelae without touching them or standing on the carved tortoises. Observe the red charms hanging from the walkway or the trees but do not touch or tug on them.
If you can, visit the temple during either the spring or mid-autumn festivals. Temple fairs bring out artisans and those peddling folk handicrafts. Food vendors sell authentic tastes to munch on as you peruse the crafts and family activities housed in the temple. They would stand in stark contrast to such a somber temple's backdrop, offering an altogether new way to experience the Dōng Yuè Miào.
Nearby:
The Chaoyang District is a hub for expat life. Whether you're looking for bars or great food, you're only a few blocks away from a good time.
Just a walk away is Gung Ho Pizza (101 Building 3 China View, 2 Gongti East Road, Sanlitun). While always a delicious stop for a quick meal, I recommend stopping by on a Tuesday evening. You can then take advantage of the restaurants 2-for-1 pizza deal. Buy one pizza, get another free. Far from your typical pepperoni pizza, they boast flavors like the Hot 'N' Spicy – Black Forest ham and pepperoni topped with red onions and sliced jalapenos – or the New Zealand Lamb Pizza – grilled veggies and tender lamb, topped with homemade harissa and fresh mint tzatziki sauce. Looking for something far off the beaten path? Try the English Fish Pie Pizza, complete with fresh salmon, sole and prawns in a bechamel sauce, mashed potatoes and spices, and fresh Parmesan. For vegetarians like me, you can't go wrong with the Roasted Eggplant – eggplant, peppers, mushrooms and fresh basil on a spinach pesto base – or Il Classico, with mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, Greek olives and oregano. There are also salads, calzones and tasty appetizers if you aren't looking for a full pizza meal. From 7 to 10 p.m., they also have a killer drink happy hour with craft beers and well-balanced mixed drinks.
If you're looking to shop after your cultural dive into the Dōng Yuè Miào, there are numerous shopping centers just a few blocks away, too, complete with bookstores, clothing boutiques, etc.
Pronunciation guide:
Dōng Yuè Miào – dong-you-eh-meow || To create the “dōng” sound, keep a sustained, very round “o” sound, and keep your tone flat and raised. The “yuè” is more clipped, with the accent on the “è” - combine you-eh, forcing the “eh” downward. “Miào” is also clipped and forced down, pronounced much like the sound a cat makes – meow.
Dictionary:
daoism (or “taoism”) || This tradition has been prevalent in Chinese life for more than 2,000 years. It seemingly combines Confucian practice with folk tradition. The practice focuses on the worship of the Dao, and on the nature of reality and how to increase their longevity while living morally. Those who practice daoism aim to remain in balance with the Dao, or “way” / “path,” the source of everything that exists.
UNESCO || The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization
Resources:
Read more about Daoism here and here.
Find out more about Mount Tai, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, here.
For Gung Ho Pizza: http://gunghopizza.com/en/